Apistogramma may not spawn for a number of reasons
Q. I have a question concerning my Apistogramma borelli red mask. I successfully bred my apistos, then separated the male from the female. They were in a small tank, and she was chasing him mercilessly. I have since transferred him back to the breeding tank, but he acts uninterested. I don't know what to do. The temperature is 82 degrees Fahrenheit, and the pH is 7.0 - the same as when they last bred. She has colored up at least once, indicating she was ready to mate, and he ignored her then, as well. Can you think of anything that could be wrong or missing, or that I could do to encourage them to breed? Thank you.
-- Charlene Stanford
A. There might be a number of reasons why your
Apistogramma borelli are not spawning at the moment, but the most common is that the male is simply not "in the mood." It is relatively common for a species of cichlid to spawn once, then not do it again for months - it is one of those old fish breeder curses. Fortunately, a number of tricks can be used to get the male to more enthusiastically appreciate his intended partner.
Perhaps the oldest trick is to wait for a low-pressure weather system to pass through your location, then do a 50-percent water change with water a few degrees cooler than the water in the aquarium. This works even better if you use water with a reduced conductivity level, such as distilled or de-ionized water or water that has been processed through a reverse osmosis unit. The idea is to lower the temperature and conductivity of the aquarium water at the same time that there is a drop in the ambient barometric pressure - all the things that happen when it rains in tropical South America where A. borelli is found.
If simulating a rainstorm in your aquarium does not help the situation, the problem might be behavioral. In small tanks, Apistogramma males can easily have their egos badly shaken by an aggressive female tending her brood. The male may simply need a target to release some aggressive behavior toward, rather than being the target of it. In a small aquarium (10 or 20 gallons), you could add some small tetras to attract the male's aggression. Often having the male doing "male things" is all he needs to get back into the mood. In a larger aquarium, an additional female or a second pair of A. borelli would fit the bill even better because of the direct competition theory: individuals of the same or similar species elicit the most powerful responses because they require and compete for the same type of resources.
Another trick is to put the male in a suitable aquarium purposefully set-up for spawning, then add the female once the male has settled in. Again, this technique serves to offer the male an opportunity to be the dominant animal and allow him to express his natural behavior. Just make sure to provide the female with adequate hiding places, in case the male gets a little rough.
I'd try the rainstorm trick first, but be prepared - you may have a bruised ego to fix instead. Good luck with them.
-- Lee Newman
Mixing lakes or continents
Q. Would it be all right to put African cichlids in the same tank with other cichlids?
-- Obdulia Lietzke
A. I like to keep cichlids from Lake Malawi with others from the same lake. Likewise with those from Lake Tanganyika. I also don't mix Old World cichlids with those from the New World. I prefer to maintain aquariums that represent groups of fish from specific habitats. This is my personal choice, but we all have different requirements and preferences.
I have seen cichlids from Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika maintained successfully in the same tank. The water parameters from these lakes are reasonably similar, so there won't be conflicting demands for different water values. Care would still be needed to ensure that the species are compatible. Consideration should be given to the size and behavior of the cichlids. Obviously, you wouldn't want to place a 12-inch ambush predator from Lake Malawi in the same tank as the tiny shell dwellers from Lake Tanganyika. If the fish occupy different levels in the tank or have different spawning requirements, the chances for conflict should be reduced. For example, you may choose to mix mouthbrooding mbuna from Lake Malawi with substrate spawners from Lake Tanganyika.
A good friend of mine who is a very accomplished cichlid breeder has great success mixing African mouthbrooders with large Central American cichlids. Both types of cichlids do well in each other's company. The natural habitats for many Central American cichlids have water hardness and pH readings that are not too dissimilar to the African rift lakes, so both groups should be able to co-exist nicely. If your prime interest is breeding your cichlids, this mix might work for you, as well.
I would be reluctant to mix rift lake cichlids with species from South America. South American cichlids generally tend to require softer water with a lower pH than rift lake cichlids are accustomed to - mixing the two groups would require at least one group to cope with less-than-ideal conditions. However, you might be able to find a suitable mix among the West African riverine cichlids and some of the South American species.
The key is to carefully research each of the cichlid species you are thinking of acquiring. For each species, consider their natural habitats, care requirements and behaviors. If, after your research, the species appear to be compatible, give them a try. Despite extensive research and our best efforts, sometimes cichlids prove to be incompatible. But that is also the case when dealing with cichlids from the same natural habitat! You gotta love 'em.
-- Craig Morfitt