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Identifying and Treating Swim Bladder Disease

What we call 'swim bladder disease' is more a syndrome than a specific disease

By Neale Monks | August 8, 2011

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In some cases, the swim bladder has become deformed in the process of breeding 'fancy' varieties of fish. Blood parrot cichlids and fancy goldfish are examples of this, and while adults may swim properly when healthy, constipation and physical injuries affects them more severely than normal fish.

When fish can't swim normally, many aquarists assume their fish has something called swim bladder disease. In fact the swim bladder is rarely at fault, and problems with swimming are more often to do with other, less obvious reasons.

Identification
What we call 'swim bladder disease' is more a syndrome than a specific disease. In other words, any disease, injury or situation that causes a fish to swim abnormally is likely to be described as swim bladder disease. Given that swim bladder disease isn't one thing, the appropriate treatment will be difficult to determine without identifying the root causes of the problem.

Newborn and newly-hatched fish
If newborn livebearers such as guppies aren't able to swim at the surface, then the problem is very likely genetic or developmental. Nothing can be done to help such fry, and euthanasia is recommended. Fry that hatch from eggs may spend one or more days as 'wrigglers' at the bottom of the tank before they start to actively feed. Once the wriggler stage has passed, fry should be able to swim off the substrate without problems, though perhaps weakly at first. Again, those fry with deformed swim bladders cannot be treated, in which case euthanasia is recommended. Swim bladder deformities are commonly seen among the offspring of species that have been routinely inbred, such as convict cichlids. But even genetically healthy stock can produce fry with swim bladder deformities, especially if diet and aquarium conditions are not adequate.

Deliberately-bred deformities
In some cases, the swim bladder has become deformed in the process of breeding 'fancy' varieties of fish. Blood parrot cichlids and fancy goldfish are examples of this, and while adults may swim properly when healthy, constipation and physical injuries affects them more severely than normal fish. Prevention is key here; the fishkeeper should take care such fish enjoy a fiber-rich diet and aren't housed with boisterous or aggressive tankmates.

Shock
Sudden exposure to environmental changes can make fish go 'loopy' for a while. Such fish show all the symptoms of swim bladder disease, swimming poorly or at odd angles. Adding very cold water to a tropical aquarium is a classic way to shock aquarium fish. There's no treatment as such, and if the fish can recover, they will do so given a few hours. Switching the tank lights off for a while often helps, partly by removing one source of stress, but also by encouraging the fish to rest quietly rather than try to swim about.

Physical damage
Cichlids and other species that engage in fierce territorial disputes are very prone to swim bladder injuries. There's not much that can be done to speed up recovery beyond isolating injured fish in a hospital tank of adequate size. Obviously the fishkeeper will also need to make sure such problems don't reoccur (or happen in the first place) by choosing livestock carefully and stocking at sensible levels for the size of the tank.

Parasitic worms
Various parasitic worms can infect aquarium fish, but on the whole they tend not to cause too much trouble. But in extreme cases the sheer mass of worms inside the gut can make it difficult for the fish to swim properly. Treating with an antihelminthic medication will be necessary.

Bacterial infection
Despite the widely-held belief that bacterial infection of the swim bladder is one particular disease, in almost all cases infection of the swim bladder is actually part of a larger, more systemic infection of the fish. By the time the fish loses its ability to swim, it will likely be very sick indeed, and treatment is extremely difficult. Standard antibiotic treatments may work, but it's dicey. Small fish will likely need to be euthanized at this point, but larger fish can recover, and valuable livestock like koi will definitely benefit from veterinarian advice.

Treatment
As indicated above, there's no one 'swim bladder disease' against which a single medication can be recommended. Bacterial infections will need to be treated one way, worm infections another, and physical injuries a third. Surprisingly perhaps, exposing fish with swim bladder problems to warmer water can help. The fish should be transferred to an adequately large Hospital tank filled with water from the main aquarium to minimize temperature and water chemistry differences. The heater in the hospital tank can then be set up to 9 °F above the temperature of the main aquarium, but care should be taken before doing this. Some species are extremely sensitive to warm water and the lower oxygen concentration it brings, in which case a smaller temperature change within the known tolerances of those species is recommended instead. As well as slightly warmer water, the lower water level can be beneficial too, but the waterline should be a few inches above the height of the fish so that there isn't any risk of it being exposed to dry air.

Prevention
Sensible selection of livestock, adequate housing, proper diet, and careful breeding should all minimize swim bladder problems among ornamental fish. In addition to these, keeping the aquarium clean reduces the risk from opportunistic bacteria, while taking care to quarantine new livestock should prevent the introduction of parasitic worms. As always, providing the right water chemistry and ensuring good water quality will minimize stress and ensure healthy fish have an immune system able to fend off any opportunistic infections.

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Identifying and Treating Swim Bladder Disease

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Reader Comments

michael    bloomfield, NJ

2/18/2014 2:53:53 PM

very informative article thank you

Jaimie McKenna Part 2    Muskegon, MI

1/10/2014 12:45:36 AM

CONTINUING ON---- have a clear/ almost yellow string attached with little bumps? An associate at my store said the bumps could be how he was pushing it out? Though this week I have hardly seen any mucus like add- ons. I haven't fed him much these past few days. Just one kibble or two. I normally only feed him four or so a day or every other day. I did fast him for about 3- 4 days before I did the water change. I then read to feed him a frozen pea. I peeled the skin from the pea and ran it under hot water to thaw it. He ate it then a couple of minutes later, spat it out..then would go after it again! So I am on the third day of trying to get him to eat a little bit of peas. At first he would just spit them out, but now he is actually eating them. What I've been doing is feeding him bits of peas only during his water changes (once a week). This way he can kind of relax in his little keeper (it's like a vase) while I clean his tank. Also, on his side, between his gills and eyes, kind of in the “nose” area, it looks like he has “glitter” on him in a teeny amount. He looks red on his side by his gills, but he has had it for a while. He also had a moss ball too. One more thing, when I would get his water checked, everything was a little above the normal range, but I was told that it was okay and that nothing was dangerous. However, his ammonia level was high. I had purchased Top Fin Ammonia Remover and I had used it three times (once per water change) so about 3 ½ weeks and that is around the time he had started acting unusual.

I am sorry to trouble you, but I would really appreciate your help. To some people - he is "just a fish", but he is more than that to me. I don't want to see him suffer. Thank you for your help and time. I really do appreciate it!

Sincerely,



Jaimie M. McKenna

Jaimie McKenna    Muskegon, MI

1/10/2014 12:42:45 AM

Hello, my name is Jaimie McKenna. I am worried about my Betta fish, which may sound silly, but I care for him and I want him to be healthy. Like I said, he is a Betta. His resides in a 5.50 gallon tank, which does not have a filter. However, I have just recently bought him a heater. I noticed about a month ago that he was acting differently rather than his usual self. It was as if he was struggling to reach the surface of the water to breathe air – he would then kind of give up and sink down to the bottom and fall to his side. His fins are clamped and when he swims, he swims kind of at an angle. Though sometimes he’ll dart across the tank. He still enjoys eating, but his actions make me feel like he might pass way.He has also just started to blow mini - little bubble nests again. He sits on his heater while he does it.

My Tank Set-Up Includes:

1. 5.50 Gallon

2. A low heater

3. No Filter

4. API Aquarium Salt – added every week

5. Weekly (sometimes a couple of days longer) 100% water change – and I rinse everything under hot water (no soap or detergents)

6. Top Fin Betta Water Conditioner
7. Betta Pellets for food

8. Gravel + decorations + and Betta hammocks for him to rest.



It is almost as if he struggles to reach the surface / to swim up. He'll give up and sink towards the bottom. I lowered the water level down to about 3 gallons so he wouldn't have to struggle. He is normally a strong swimmer and will fan out his fins. He loves resting on his hammocks too. Now it is as if he can't support his back fins. When he finally rests, he sits straight up sometimes. I have been using Betta Fix because that is what my Pet Care Manager (I work at PetsMart) told me to do. She said if it was swim bladder that he would float to the top. But tonight I read an article that said they can sink too. I have finished the 7 days of his Betta fix treatment a couple of weeks ago (there is 7 days total to do) and he seems to be acting a little better. He doesn't seem to sit straight up as much. His swimming seems to have improved too. But something is still wrong and I am afraid that I may lose him. I read about swim bladder and constipation and it said to check for any droppings. That that would be a good sign. I had found two then, as recommended, did a 100% water change after the BettaFix. What concerns me is that one had a yellow glob attached to it. I'm sorry for being grotesque, but I want to be as thorough as possible. He hadn't had went too much for a while, but now I am finding more droppings. Some would

Marisa    melbourne, VI

11/21/2012 10:51:45 PM

We have a fishpond 10,000 ltrs with about 150 fish. We changed water 2wks ago using tank water and 30% tap. In 10 days we lost 100 fish even though all water tests were done using API. Some fish had scaly patches and we feel there is a bacteria in water. How do we test for bacteria? The clear water turned algae green within 2 weeks. Alot of work to enjoy in short time but more heartbreaking to see so many lovely fish die.

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